MY memories of the Tennants Arms at Kilnsey, which must have one of the most spectacular aspects in the land nestling in the shadow of majestic Kilnsey Crag, go back many years.

The first time I called there was almost 40 years ago when a bright spark at Gargrave Cricket Club decided to hold a 25 mile sponsored walk. What was less sound was his idea to hold it on New Year's Day.

Hardy souls including John Spencer and my elder brother set off on a journey I was only able to complete thanks to the restorative powers of a bottle of pale ale and a beef sandwich in Kilnsey. Spencer was to make his name playing for rugby clubs with fierce sounding names like Barbarians, Lions and Anti-Assassins, the brother made enough dosh to enjoy early retirement and world travel while I write an occasional dining out column for the local rag so it's difficult to decide who came out on top.

A more recent visit came when I was in a rather relaxed state after a successful day at Kilnsey Show. The welcome that day was less warm, with a bouncer on the door and part of the bar closed for service so I resolved there and then to make it best of three with a visit to the Crag Restaurant.

Sadly it's closed on a Friday but the welcome was warm with a cheery find thissen a table' in the bustling bar. Mission accomplished, we set about choosing from a comprehensive menu of traditional steaks and chops, pastas and casseroles mixed with exotic items such as Moroccan lamb casserole. Prices varied from £8 for fish and chips to £16 an eight-berth rack of lamb.

The vegetarian selection was a disappointment so it was tomato and roast pepper soup (£3.50) followed by lamb's liver and bacon (£8.95) for Mrs C and pt with Cumberland sauce (£3.95) and a fillet steak (£15.95) for the bill payer.

Service was at the speed of light despite the crowded bar and the home made' handle attached to many of the items like chips and onion rings was beyond doubt.

The soup was a little bitter and would have benefited from a dash of cream but the pate was smooth and the sauce an excellent accompaniment. The large dollop of mash served with the liver rendered the side dish of new potatoes superfluous but crispy bacon, mushrooms and a thick tasty gravy helped the dish disappear in record time.

The fillet steak was, for me, cooked perfectly and was tender enough to cut with a fork but sadly the neighbouring portion of button mushrooms had been incinerated rather than sauted to leave them with the chewy texture of a soft centered mint but with less of the flavour.

Puddings as varied as sticky toffee pudding, cheesecake and Belgian waffles were offered all priced at £3.95 but the portions had been so generous as to leave us, regrettably, without the space for one.

With interesting wall decorations ranging from a deep sea diver's helmet to some weird and dangerous looking agricultural implements The Tennants is well worth the trip and has undoubtedly won the contest by two falls to one.

Reviewed by: Andrew Clark